Burtscheid – Aachen's spa district with charm and urban spirit
“Curiosity is my compass in the city – and beyond.”
That's the feeling I set out with. Who knows it? The feeling of being at home and yet a stranger. It's a feeling of strangeness with a wonderfully positive nuance, shrouded in curiosity, with a touch of wonder. This brilliant mixture led me, as a native of Aachen, through Burtscheid with my eyes wide open on a Saturday afternoon. Finally, I sat alone – but not lonely – in the sunshine, enjoying a coffee, my travel spirit full of beautiful impressions.
Burtscheid. A district outside the city center...
…and yet so very much at the heart of life. If you want to get to know Aachen from a different angle, you should definitely take a stroll through Burtscheid—only about a ten-minute walk from the city center. Like the Frankenberg district, this district has its own spirit: it is a mix of several attractive things. Hot healing water meets cold water. Coffee culture meets stylish urban café culture, history meets modernity, baroque meets spa history, nature meets architecture. Sounds interesting? It is.
O'FRÀ Pizzabar
I start my walk coming from the train station, passing one of my favorite bars. It's not a classic bar for a drink, no, it's a pizza bar. O'FRÀ invites you to linger and enjoy, because pizza is love, according to their philosophy. Antipasti and drinks are also a treat!
Kurpark
I stroll into the Kurpark. Not a spa garden from a bygone era, no, Burtscheid is still a spa town today. Burtscheid is bubbling with life – in the truest sense of the word. Beneath the district lie some of the hottest thermal springs in Central Europe, which the Romans used for their bathhouses. The water reaches the surface at up to 74 degrees (Celsius) – perfect for spa treatments, your back, and so much more.
I am fascinated by the beautifully landscaped nature of the Kurpark, which harmoniously incorporate a fountain, benches, walking paths, flower beds, meadows, and the Rosenquelle. There is still a hint of the Belle Époque in the air.
Fascinating buildings
I am magically drawn to St. Michael's Church, not least because the path up the hill is a staircase, and staircases have always fascinated me. The church towers above Burtscheid, and the view down to the houses from different eras is fascinating. My path to Burtscheider Markt leads from the main portal of the church down an ancient staircase, and I wonder what these stones have seen over the years.
My curiosity leads me slightly to the side of the market. I am fascinated by impressive facades and gateways.
I am drawn to an incredibly narrow street. Built in the same style as those found in old towns in the deep south, designed to let in as little sun as possible. My curiosity stops me in my tracks and I discover the street sign “Kaltbachgässchen”, named after a cold stream (around 11 degrees Celsius) that runs underground there and ends in the valley outside Burtscheid. What a contrast to the hot springs bubbling up in Burtscheid, just a few meters away in a fountain.
Urban flair meets picture-book atmosphere
The Burtscheider Markt – a square and pedestrian zone where life pulsates. Children, spa guests, business people, pensioners, students, shoppers and people milling around are all present. Really present – they don't just “walk through,” they consciously shop, consciously enjoy a coffee, consciously talk. I can sense a refined aura.
Urban coffee culture attracts me everywhere, and so I am drawn to Leni's. A café with its own roastery and correspondingly delicious coffee specialties, offering treats such as breakfast and cake, but also selling coffee beans and stylish cups from its own label.
A few meters further on is the traditional Lammerskötter pastry shop, which serves as both a store and a café with a beautiful outdoor terrace, delicious gingerbread cookies, pralines, cakes, and savory dishes. A treat for the taste buds, also available to take away, because Öcher Printe gingerbread cookies are known to taste good all year round.
On Fridays, you can stroll through the weekly market with all your senses. Vegetables, fruit, bread, cheese, coffee, flowers. Simply a colorful mix for everyday needs, and yet it is a luxury to be able to shop in such a beautiful setting at the Burtscheid market. “Stay a while, moment” – a quote that is so wonderfully fitting for me.
Strolling along the facades
Urban flair always has so many facets. Cafés, small green spaces, benches, and beautiful shops are part of it for me. And Burtscheid has a lot to offer in this regard. But there is also the facet of local life, which for me is reflected in the facades of the houses. And so I stroll through the side streets of Burtscheid, look up, and can't get enough.
Burtscheid—a place to fall in love with and stay in.
The mix of urban flair and an almost village-like atmosphere exudes a special charm.
“Every new place is a page in a book I'm writing”, I think to myself, sitting at the Burtscheid market with my coffee in hand.
- Katja Esser